WORKFLOW

original picture
I took this while my husband was driving ,
we were going to Anchorage. I set my
camera to shooting subject in motion.


general fixes:
lightening shadow
darken shadow
midtone
color:
saturation
hue
temperature
sharpen


layer: glowing edges

layer: tint sepia then crop the picture
I used Photoshop element 6.0

Joel Meyerowitz : Photographer

Joel Meyerowitz : Photographer
A video about street photography, excellent.

Sharing Photos by Marilyn

I've found an interest in sharing my photos with others as a result of this course. I've enjoyed the photos of others on MySpace and BEBO with family and friends as well. Now, I have another online account from which to organize and share photos with my family and friends. All I have to do is invite them to share my photos and hopefully they'll invite me back to share their happiness with. Click here to view my recent photos on FLICKER: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21367363@N06/show/

John Nack on Adobe: Photoshop ethics & pistols & kittens

John Nack on Adobe: Photoshop ethics & pistols & kittens
Just because you can does not mean that you should.

David Claveau - Week 12 Sharing Photos

Right now as I learn, I share my photos for constructive criticism and to feel out what kind of photos appeal the most to certain people. I only intend to share with friends and family currently while I learn but eventually I would like to possibly sell photos or at least get published. I have been using Flickr for a few months now and have been posting, not all of my photos, but alot. I will wittle them down to only the best in time, see them here!

Workflow

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Problem
The people are too dark. The sunset is only really in the center and it should feel more enveloping. the people are just a tiny bit blurry too.

Solutions
1. adjust brightness/contrast
2. resize field of view to guide attention
3. attempt to fix blurriness

Tools
1. irfanview - basic adjusts
2. photoshop - fine tuning

Procedure
1. irfanview->enhance colors, increase gamma correction to 1.5 and then increase saturation to 200 to compensate for the colors lost in the sunset. Adjust green and blue down slightly to compensate for over saturation, the slight red gives it a warmer feeling.
2. irfanview->select viewpoint, crop. You can do this in most programs, but irfanview is fast and you can see the picture in fullscreen quickly, where it shows it against a black background.
3. attempt to remove bluriness using photoshop filters, mainly smart sharpen at very low amounts (3% at 3px) using the lens blur.


Applying the workflow
The second photo was similar to the first in how the foreground was very dark. Similarily the the framing needed to be adjusted, but this one was set up a bit better to begin with. I wanted the photo have a more WIDE feeling as well, because in reality the sky and the water were all encompassing.

Conclusion
It took a bit of tweaking to make sure the sunset looked full of color. Only minor value adjustments were needed in the workflow. The end result looks and feels much better, warm and vibrant with rich colors.

Sometimes the best thing to do is to apply a mask in photoshop to the foreground and adjust the brightness/contrast separately from the background. This can be very time consuming, and should probably only be done to the most deserving photos.

Motivation: Photographer's Rights In Pittsburgh........Again

Motivation: Photographer's Rights In Pittsburgh........Again

Look at the links at the bottom of this post for more information on photographer's rights.

Photo Fix (using my workflow techniques)

First; i' cropped the photo-

Image- Adjust/ Curves/

then i selected the lasso tool, and made a selection path around the tea pot.

i adjusted the tones, just a few notchs, to make it appear more sharper.

using my clone brush, i covered the white speckly line that was near the top of the first photo.

that was it.

i wanted just a plain photo of the fire and the teapot, using the simple workflow steps, i've gotten used to, i was able to complete this in minutes.

-TerriC

Photoshop workflow

I use the same, basic, simply work-flow each time i edit my photos in photoshop.
i open my image; duplicate the image (CTRL D) shortcut. then i go to Image adjust/ Curves, set to the right color balance, make sure my shadow/highlights are the way i would like it. then, if i need to soften an over exposed image, i would do so, by decreasing the opacity. These are just a few of the basic steps that i am very use to using, each time i open photoshop.

however, there are times when i need to use the other usefull tools, the magnetic lasso tool and clone brush are my personal favorites.

Here are a few examples, of photos i've taken, that needed a little fixer-up! :)

This photo taken, of my dad and I was taken at night time, and

my settings may of been a little off!

too much contrast in our face,

took this photo in my backyard. i adjusted the curve levels...

Using the magnetic lasso tool, i was able to crop me and my dad out of the photo above, then while selected, used the feathering tool, set it to about 2/ and copied the selection to my scenery background photo. Some pieces of the photo didn't show, and it looked as if only parts of our face/hair was there! so using the clone tool, i was able to shade in the missing areas!
after i was complete with our photo, i used the marquee tool to select a border around the whole photo, and under "Edit" , stroke, made the width about 20px, chose blending mode "hue", set the opacity to 50%. and created a soft black border.

-terri c

Flickr: Creative Commons

Flickr: Creative Commons
Here is a description of the different Creative Commons options on Flickr. I use the Attribution-NonCommercial Creative Commons license for my photographs.

Creative Commons - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Creative Commons - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Creative Commons is an alternative to copyrighting your photographs that offers more flexibility. When you use FLICKR you have an opportunity to assign a creative commons license to your photographs.

POD Photo Books, Blurb, VioVio, SharedInk, MyPublisher | Black and White Photography Blog

POD Photo Books, Blurb, VioVio, SharedInk, MyPublisher | Black and White Photography Blog
An excellent and detailed look at POD Photo Books for Black and White photography.

Cool Tool: Blurb * Lulu

Cool Tool: Blurb * Lulu
Blurb and Lulu are two of many web sites where you can create your own published books. This is a new technology that is evolving quickly.

Roger M. Marty - CIOS 258 Lesson Week 12

Sharing Photographs

Updated: 28-Nov-2007

You will find my "shared" photographs at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21177115@N08/

Why do I share photographs?
To hopefully give others the pleasure that I get from the experience.

Who is my audience?
Anyone that has an interest or will take the time to look
at the photos and hear the story behind them.

What do I want to share?
The experience of the photo and what each individuals sees.

My motivation to share.

I am motived to share by the desire for feedback as to what is good and what is bad.
Not in the sense of what is photographically good but what is interesting and pleasing
to look at. What is in the photo (any part of it) that will make the viewer take that

extra few seconds or minutes to study it and enjoy what they are experiencing.

Roger M. Marty - CIOS 258 Lesson Week 11

More editing and enhancing skills:

Original Photo

1) Resized to 450 pixel for use on the web
Did not like:

1)the partial image in lower right

2) Darknes of individual pushing car

1) Croped image to remove individual in lower right

2) Resized cropped imaged to 450 pixels wide for use on web

3) Set levels as below to bring out details of individuals pushing the car.

Roger M. Marty - CIOS 258 Lesson Week 10

Original Image

Edited Image
1) Remove wires -using "healing brush tool"
2) Adjust Shadows/Highlights

3) Exposure

4) Convert from RAW to PNG
5) Resize images for web.

Lesson 4: how my camera works

Adjusting ISO: When I am not looking at a photo, I can hit the zoom in button twice and it brings up the options for taking PSAM photos. The fourth option down usually shows a number 100-1600 or HI 1, the number it displays is its current ISO sensitivity setting. By selecting that option I can adjust the ISO 100-200-400-800-1600-HI1.

Adjusting White Balance: Same menu as ISO, and it is directly above the ISO option, the third one down. I can select it to work on Auto, and several auto settings for different settings like outside, outside at night, indoors florescent lighting, indoors, indoors dark(like a concert hall) or I can preset the white balance manually with a white sheet of paper. There is another menu that one can access even when not using PSAM modes: Menu > Camera Icon > White Balance. All the same settings are there but without the preview images and this is where you can set the preset WB. Choose it, select Measure, say yes to overwriting previous preset, and take a picture of a white piece of paper, and its set!

Exposure Compensation: Zoom x 2 menu again, it is the second to last option, looks like a half full battery symbol with +/- on it. There is a preview Image that you can see how much you are effecting it while you subtract or add exposure levels.

File Size Compression: Menu > Shooting Menu > Image Size > Select Large Medium or Small to fit your tastes. Can also adjust Image Quality from Raw to JPEG FINE all the way to Raw/JPEG Basic.

Exposure Meter Mode: Menu > Custom Setting Menu > Metering > Matrix/Center-weighted/spot.

Macro Focusing: My camera doesn't have macro, it depends upon the lense i have.

Flash mode: I just push and hold the flash adjustment button and rotate a selecting wheel(much like the wheels for getting to the next portion of film on old fashioned cameras)

week 10

quadrant colors


embossed



cropped




original picture

edited it thru photoshop elements 6.0

Wk 9 Photoshop Edit/Enhance by Marilyn

Final Product:
1. Added color to my Mom's photo: blue sky, green scrave, pale pink face with red lips.
2. Added a photo of my bro Jr with his dog grabbing the photo with a lasso tool and moved it to 1st layer (My Mom's photo. I then transformed the picture by resizing it to him look his age/size.
3. Added a photo of my Father, blurred it, and used the lasso tool to move it to the 1st layer; I then transformed it to resize the image bigger to make it appear as big as the 1st layer photo.
4. I flatten all the layers together and added a filter to give it an artistic flare: grainy appearance.
1st layer.
2nd layer
3rd layer

Lesson 10 Project - Part 2 by Kathy Adams

One of my jobs at work is to take photographs of people for our webpage; I asked my friend if I could use her picture for this assignment and she said I could.

This is the original picture, only resized so as not to take up too much room.

Evaluation and Tuning:

I downloaded this picture from my camera's storage disk and looked at it in Photoshop 6 to see if it was good enough for what it was needed for.

1.) needed to be cropped; our web designer said he needs all photos to be ratio 3:4 so I set my crop tool to crop for a 9x12 size.

2.) saw that "red eye tool" needed to be used: zoomed in on red eyes and adjusted red eye tool for pupil size 43%; darken amount 60%; had to clone some of the red eye because the red eye tool just wouldn't fix it completely on its own

3.) went to the levels layer and lightened to get this reading: 10, 1.32, 219

4.) because of the flash I had some shadows so I zoomed in on the shadow areas and used the clone tool settings from 11 px to 25px; normal, to take out the shadows

5.) used healing brush set to 11px proximity match, to clean up the young man's face and had to use the clone tool for some areas; also used the clone tool to fix mom's smile where tooth was showing through smile

6.) Lighting tools: Adjust color - skin tone; to get a more realistic color range I used the eyedropper and clicked onto some skin till I got the colors I wanted

7.) Adjust colors - color variations to take out some of the reds; midtones: decreased red about 33% and lightened midtones; shadows darkened about 33% and set saturation about 15% darker

8.) Healing brush and clone tool, set on 55px, proximity match, on background to make it look softer

9.) Filter: Correct Camera Distortion - added vignette: amount -83 and midpoint set at +29

10.) Flattened image to lock all the layers together

11.) saved as a jpeg

12.) resized for this webpage and for e-mail I will not use the resized photo for my original purpose.

This is the final result:

Lesson 10 Project - Part 1 by Kathy Adams

Done in Photoshop 6:

This is the original picture for part one; assignment steps 1-5, only resized so it won't take up too much room on web page or take forever to upload.


I took this picture today from my office window because the pink and blue in the clouds was

layered in a pretty way. I knew it would need a lot of editing because I thought I might like to make it into a watercolor type picture. I downloaded it from my storage disk.

The following is my usual workflow:

Evaluation & Tuning:

1.) check to see if picture is even worth working on; not obviously blurred or total trash

2.) check to see if it needs to be cropped or straightened

I cropped it

3.) click the "auto color" option to see what changes it will do automatically

4.) after doing this I usually work with the "adjust color, color variations" option because I like to see what will happen when I choose to add more of certain colors

Midtones: increase the reds about 33%

decreased the greens about 33%

Shadows: darken about 33%

Highlights: lighten about 33%

Saturation: 33% darker

5.) after doing these things, the picture looked a little "noisy" so I went to the noise reduction filter

Strength: 8

Preserve Details: 88%

Reduce color noise: 87%

Remove jpeg artifact

6.) after doing this I went to the "levels layer"

I used the slider to get these results: 17, 107 and 249 because it looked good to me.

Effects:

1.) Filter: Artistic Filter: Dry Brush

Brush Size: 1

Brush Detail: 10

Texture: 1

2.) after I did this I thought it would look better if I cropped it even more

3.) flattened image so the layers were all compressed together

4.) resized for e-mail and web page use from 1641 x 1159 to 820 x 579

5.) saved to external hard drive under "water colors"

This is the final result:

Exposure-Mat - Free Light Meter

Exposure-Mat - Free Light Meter
An excellent free exposure meter. I am impressed.

Week 10

Original



Edited


list of steps i took to edit:


copy layer
enhance
adjust lighting
levels
crop
enhance
adjust lighting
shadows/highlights


i took this photo with my old camera of the clouds and the lake before the storm hit. i wanted to edit this to give it more of a lightend look and so its not so bla and dull. i used photoshop elements 6 to do this.